By Michael on Mar 12, 2008 in Materials & Tools, Windows | 0 Comments
Pry off the stops that hold the lower sash in place. Remove the old rope from the sash. Then lower the upper sash and pull out the parting strip. Also, remove the upper sash if its rope is broken. Unscrew the sash weight access panel in the side jamb. Remove the weights and old cords. [...]
By Michael on Mar 10, 2008 in Bathroom, Plumbing | 0 Comments
Moisture on the outside of a toilet tank is condensation from warm air forming on the water-cooled tank. To prevent the problem, insulate the inside tank walls. First, shut off the water supply, then drain and dry the inside of the tank. Cut ½-inch-thick foam rubber to line the insides and bottom of the tank. [...]
By Michael on Mar 10, 2008 in Concrete | 0 Comments
You can fill cracks larger than 1/4 inch with concrete patching compound. Here’s how: Vacuum out any dirt. Brush on an acrylic bonding liquid for extra strength. Press the compound into the crack with a steel trowel. Strike off any excess. Before the mortar cures, finish the patch to match the surrounding area.
Professional tip
Don’t try [...]
By Michael on Mar 10, 2008 in Concrete | 0 Comments
There’s no easy way around it - removing existing concrete patios, driveways, and pathways is hard work. Whether or not you can do it by yourself depends on the thickness of the concrete and the strength of your back.
If the concrete is under 3 inches thick, you can break it up with a sledgehammer. Go [...]
By Michael on Mar 10, 2008 in Concrete | 0 Comments
Preparation is the key to patching. Remove all loose material with a wire brush. Then rinse with water to get rid of dust and to dampen the old concrete so it won’t suck moisture from the patching compound. Brace a form board against the step riser so the top is level with the tread. Apply [...]
By Michael on Mar 10, 2008 in Concrete | 0 Comments
A sidewalk section that is badly cracked or heaved is easier to replace than repair. Break out the bad concrete with a sledge hammer. Stake 2-by-4 forms against the sides of the adjoining sections. Mix bagged concrete with water and fill the forms.
The trick to making your new walk level and flat is called screeding. [...]
By Michael on Mar 9, 2008 in Decks & Patios | 0 Comments
Removing Deck Boards
When a deck board needs replacement, use a cat’s paw to pull the nails. If only part of the board is bad, it’s usually easier to cut a deck board alongside a joist with a jigsaw or compass saw. It’s tough to cut on top of a joist, as the decking nails will [...]
By Michael on Mar 7, 2008 in Doors, Renovation, Wood | 0 Comments
There are several possible reasons why a door might bind. The screws may no longer hold the hinges securely, one or both hinges may be set in a mortise that’s too deep or too shallow, the door itself may have warped, or the jambs may go out of square as the house settles. The problem [...]
By Michael on Mar 7, 2008 in Doors, Fence, Wood | 0 Comments
Wood shrinks, joints open and fasteners loosen. What to do? An adjustable turnbuckle brace, available in rod or cable form, will square up the gate and permit future adjustments. Kits that include all necessary hardware and instructions are widely available but you can also make your own setup from standard hardware. Use steel cable for [...]
By Michael on Mar 7, 2008 in Fence, Landscaping | 1 Comment
To cut a hole, drive the blades of your post hole digger sharply into the ground. When loose soil collects in the hole, pull the handles apart to scoop it out.
Try to dig a bell-shaped hole - larger at the bottom than the top. It may help to soak the soil before you dig post [...]