By Michael on Mar 4, 2008 in Landscaping, Lawn | 0 Comments
Sod is a carpet of grass you unroll to create an instant lawn. You can lay sod in any month when the ground isn’t frozen. To purchase it, look under “Sod” in your Yellow Pages.
Order enough sod to cover your lawn, plus about 10 percent extra to allow for fitting. Sod deteriorates quickly if it [...]
By Michael on Mar 4, 2008 in Landscaping | 0 Comments
Spring or fall is the best time to set new container plants into the ground. Starting from a fence corner or other reference point, measure off the planting distances indicated in your plan. Set each container in position, then adjust placement if it looks ungainly. Use tall stakes to represent plants you’ll be adding later.
Your [...]
By Michael on Mar 4, 2008 in Landscaping | 0 Comments
Your plants and lawn will grow better if your soil is in top shape. Add organic matter to make your soil more workable and to help it hold water and nutrients. Lay it 2 inches deep around trees, shrubs and woody ground covers. For lawns and beds, use 3 to 6 inches.
If your soil has [...]
By Michael on Mar 4, 2008 in Landscaping | 0 Comments
Testing the Soil
A soil test tells you what the soil needs for your plants to grow well. You may need to change the soil’s pH or add fertilizer or organic matter. Soil test kits, sold at nurseries and garden centers usually measure only pH. For a more complete diagnosis, have a professional lab test [...]
By Michael on Mar 3, 2008 in Landscaping | 0 Comments
Plant Shapes
Professional landscapers choose plants by their shape first, to fulfill a particular function. Only then do they select the species. Here’s how to choose plant shapes.
For shade, select a broad-spreading or vase-shaped tree for lawns or a small round tree for patios. If you want sun to come through in winter, select a deciduous [...]
By Michael on Mar 3, 2008 in Landscaping | 0 Comments
Marking Easements and Utility Lines
Before breaking ground on your project, use special landscape paint (or powdered chalk, sprinkled flour, flags, or stakes and string) to mark the locations of all utility lines. If you don’t, you may cause damage or accidents.
Underground utilities lie at different depths, from a few inches to several feet. Ask your [...]
By Michael on Mar 3, 2008 in Landscaping | 0 Comments
Check local ordinances and building codes and obtain permits
These projects are often governed by local ordinances or require building permits: grading, erosion control, spas and swimming pools, fences, retaining walls, sprinklers, lighting and electrical systems, patio roofs, gas piping, and off-grade or cantilevered decks. Getting a building permit can be as simple as a one-time [...]
By Michael on Nov 25, 2007 in Energy-saving, Materials & Tools, Renovation, Windows | 0 Comments
Position the new glass in the opening. Lay glazing points about 6 inches apart against the glass. Use a putty knife to wiggle them into the frame. Knead glazing compound to make it warm and pliable. Then roll it into a snake shape and press it in place. To smooth the compound, start at one [...]
By Michael on Nov 25, 2007 in Energy-saving, Materials & Tools, Renovation, Security, Windows | 0 Comments
Wearing gloves, pull out the glass shards. Remove the old glazing compound (soft, putty-like material that seals glass to window sash and sometimes to doors) one of these ways:
Rolling: Ease the corner of a scraper between the putty and the sash. Gradually roll the blade deeper till the putty gives way.
Scoring: Run a utility knife [...]
By Michael on Nov 21, 2007 in Cooling, Energy-saving, Heating, Insulation, Renovation | 0 Comments
Leaking or poorly insulated ducts are a common and serious problem in forced air systems, affecting comfort, health, and economy.
Start by inspecting all of the ductwork in your system. If you find places where the duct was never installed or connected, or has broken free from the adjoining duct or register, call a competent contractor [...]