Removing Deck Boards
When a deck board needs replacement, use a cat’s paw to pull the nails. If only part of the board is bad, it’s usually easier to cut a deck board alongside a joist with a jigsaw or compass saw. It’s tough to cut on top of a joist, as the decking nails will ruin a sawblade.
Professional tip: For hard to remove boards, try pounding up from below.

Replacing Deck Boards
After you’ve cut out the bad decking, you’ll need to create a new support cleat for the patch. Install a short piece of 2-by-4 along the top edge of the joist to support the new decking. Then cut and nail your replacement decking. Treat any remaining rot on the existing joist with copper arsenate or another approved fungicide.
Professional tip: To keep the 2-by-4 cleat flush, start some nails in it. Then pull it tight to the bottom of the decking before nailing it in.

Repairing a Rotted Post
If a post has rotted at the base, it’s possible to replace just part of it without having to interfere with the structure above. Support the deck with a jack before beginning this repair. Cut a lap joint–at least 18 inches long– in the existing post, above the damaged area. To make the crosscut, set a circular saw to exactly half the depth of the post. Then rip from both sides down the center. Use a chisel to clean up the portion of the joint where the circular saw blade does not reach. Install three staggered bolts through the posts to hold them together.
Professional tip: Precise layout and cutting will make the new joint strong and neat.

Bracing
If your deck is more than two feet tall, bracing will improve its stability. Knee braces can extend from the posts to the joists or to the beams. Place braces at a 45-degree angle between the post and frame. Begin about 2/3 of the way up the post. Free-standing decks require stronger bracing since they do not gain any stiffness from the building. Use X-bracing between the posts. To get the most out of any bracing scheme, make sure that all braces are bolted and that the bolt holes are drilled to the proper size.

Subterranean Termites
Wooden structures not built with insect-resistant wood can become fodder for termites. To prevent an infestation, try to avoid contact between earth and wood (termites must draw water from the soil every day). Concrete footingsmake it difficult for termites to reach the structure. Still, termites may attempt to bridge the gap by building brown shelter tubes - slightly thicker than a pencil - up the side of a footing to reach the wood. If you find a termite tube, brush it away and wait a few days. If the tube is rebuilt, you have an active infestation. Contact a licensed pest control operator. Read more about how to prevent and fight termites in your home.

Wood Decay
Wood, when exposed to sufficient moisture, becomes an attractive food for a variety of fungi. You can’t eliminate the fungi; their spores are always present in the air. To become active, these fungi require moderate temperatures, oxygen, and wood with more than a 19 percent moisture content. If you think about it, decks provide just such an environment much of the year. If any of these conditions are removed, the fungi become dormant again. Proper deck board spacing, the use of rot-resistant lumber, and regular applications of sealers all help to prolong the life of your deck. Read more about how to fix and prevent wood decay.

In addition, to find some more tips please visit Tips for deck maintenance.

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