House Renovation Tips

Pry off the stops that hold the lower sash in place. Remove the old rope from the sash. Then lower the upper sash and pull out the parting strip. Also, remove the upper sash if its rope is broken. Unscrew the sash weight access panel in the side jamb. Remove the weights and old cords. Cut new cords to the length of the old ones and insert them over the pulleys and into the cavity. Then tie the rope to the weight and knot the other end for the sash. Re-install the access panel, sash, and trim.

Tools and Materials
- utility knife
- flat bar
- screwdriver
- hammer
- sash cord (braided nylon is best)
- finishing nails
- paraffin (to lubricate sash and channels)

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Moisture on the outside of a toilet tank is condensation from warm air forming on the water-cooled tank. To prevent the problem, insulate the inside tank walls. First, shut off the water supply, then drain and dry the inside of the tank. Cut ½-inch-thick foam rubber to line the insides and bottom of the tank. Don’t let the foam interfere with moving parts. Use silicone glue or rubber cement to hold the foam rubber in place. Do not refill the tank for 24 hours.
If the water company consistently delivers water at less than 50 degrees, you may have to install a tempering valve to mix hot water with the cold that flows into the tank.

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You can fill cracks larger than 1/4 inch with concrete patching compound. Here’s how: Vacuum out any dirt. Brush on an acrylic bonding liquid for extra strength. Press the compound into the crack with a steel trowel. Strike off any excess. Before the mortar cures, finish the patch to match the surrounding area.

Professional tip
Don’t try to feather out the patch over the floor on either side of the crack. These overlaps tend to crack off.

For smaller cracks
Use caulk to seal small-1/4-inch and under-cracks. Silicone- or acrylic-based products, often called mortar or concrete sealants, tolerate some movement without failing.

For larger patches
Bore 1/2-inch diameter x 2-inch deep holes in the edges of the damaged concrete. Use anchor cement to secure 1/4×4-inch bolts in the holes. (The exposed part of the bolts helps secure the patch.)
After the patch hardens, mist it with water and cover it with plastic for about a week. This extends the curing time and strengthens the patch.

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There’s no easy way around it - removing existing concrete patios, driveways, and pathways is hard work. Whether or not you can do it by yourself depends on the thickness of the concrete and the strength of your back.
If the concrete is under 3 inches thick, you can break it up with a sledgehammer. Go to an edge and with a shovel dig a short distance under the concrete. Pry it up, then swing away. A pry bar will help you separate the pieces.
For bigger jobs, rent an electric jackhammer or pneumatic jackhammer.

Safety
Wear safety goggles, thick gloves and heavy work boots.

Tools and materials
- shovel
- scoop shovel
- wheelbarrow
- sledgehammer
- steel rake

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Preparation is the key to patching. Remove all loose material with a wire brush. Then rinse with water to get rid of dust and to dampen the old concrete so it won’t suck moisture from the patching compound. Brace a form board against the step riser so the top is level with the tread. Apply the mortar with a pointed trowel. When the patch firms, but before it dries completely, remove the form and finish the surface to match the surrounding area. Round off the corner to make it more durable.

If the patch is more than two inches thick, drill 1/2×2-inch holes in the step and set 1/4×4-inch bolts in mortar in the holes to anchor the patch.
Let the patch cure before walking on it.
Many packaged patching compounds are quick-curing and offer improved bonding strength. These include both epoxy and latex formulations.

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A sidewalk section that is badly cracked or heaved is easier to replace than repair. Break out the bad concrete with a sledge hammer. Stake 2-by-4 forms against the sides of the adjoining sections. Mix bagged concrete with water and fill the forms.
The trick to making your new walk level and flat is called screeding. This technique is like overfilling a measuring cup with flour, then striking off the excess with the back of a knife.
You’ll need several finishing tools; buy them if you expect to use them a few times.
Smooth the surface by drawing a wooden float across the slab. To create rounded edges slide an edger back and forth along the forms. Cut control joints with a groover. Guide the groover against a straightedge tacked to the forms.

Professional tip
As soon as the surface water disappears, sweep arcs across the slab surface with a wood float. This makes the surface more dense.

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Removing Deck Boards
When a deck board needs replacement, use a cat’s paw to pull the nails. If only part of the board is bad, it’s usually easier to cut a deck board alongside a joist with a jigsaw or compass saw. It’s tough to cut on top of a joist, as the decking nails will ruin a sawblade.
Professional tip: For hard to remove boards, try pounding up from below.

Replacing Deck Boards
After you’ve cut out the bad decking, you’ll need to create a new support cleat for the patch. Install a short piece of 2-by-4 along the top edge of the joist to support the new decking. Then cut and nail your replacement decking. Treat any remaining rot on the existing joist with copper arsenate or another approved fungicide.
Professional tip: To keep the 2-by-4 cleat flush, start some nails in it. Then pull it tight to the bottom of the decking before nailing it in.

Repairing a Rotted Post
If a post has rotted at the base, it’s possible to replace just part of it without having to interfere with the structure above. Support the deck with a jack before beginning this repair. Cut a lap joint–at least 18 inches long– in the existing post, above the damaged area. To make the crosscut, set a circular saw to exactly half the depth of the post. Then rip from both sides down the center. Use a chisel to clean up the portion of the joint where the circular saw blade does not reach. Install three staggered bolts through the posts to hold them together.
Professional tip: Precise layout and cutting will make the new joint strong and neat.

Bracing
If your deck is more than two feet tall, bracing will improve its stability. Knee braces can extend from the posts to the joists or to the beams. Place braces at a 45-degree angle between the post and frame. Begin about 2/3 of the way up the post. Free-standing decks require stronger bracing since they do not gain any stiffness from the building. Use X-bracing between the posts. To get the most out of any bracing scheme, make sure that all braces are bolted and that the bolt holes are drilled to the proper size.

Subterranean Termites
Wooden structures not built with insect-resistant wood can become fodder for termites. To prevent an infestation, try to avoid contact between earth and wood (termites must draw water from the soil every day). Concrete footingsmake it difficult for termites to reach the structure. Still, termites may attempt to bridge the gap by building brown shelter tubes - slightly thicker than a pencil - up the side of a footing to reach the wood. If you find a termite tube, brush it away and wait a few days. If the tube is rebuilt, you have an active infestation. Contact a licensed pest control operator. Read more about how to prevent and fight termites in your home.

Wood Decay
Wood, when exposed to sufficient moisture, becomes an attractive food for a variety of fungi. You can’t eliminate the fungi; their spores are always present in the air. To become active, these fungi require moderate temperatures, oxygen, and wood with more than a 19 percent moisture content. If you think about it, decks provide just such an environment much of the year. If any of these conditions are removed, the fungi become dormant again. Proper deck board spacing, the use of rot-resistant lumber, and regular applications of sealers all help to prolong the life of your deck. Read more about how to fix and prevent wood decay.

In addition, to find some more tips please visit Tips for deck maintenance.

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There are several possible reasons why a door might bind. The screws may no longer hold the hinges securely, one or both hinges may be set in a mortise that’s too deep or too shallow, the door itself may have warped, or the jambs may go out of square as the house settles. The problem may even be humidity.
Check the hinges first, since they’re the easiest component to adjust.

Deepen a Hinge Mortise
A door may bind if its hinges are not set deeply enough in the jamb. Remove the door and its hinge leaves. Support the door on edge. Mark the new mortise depth.
Make a cut at each end of the mortise and along the back edge. Hold the chisel vertically with the beveled side facing the mortised area. Position the chisel at a 45° angle, beveled side up; tap lightly to cut to the desired depth. Move the chisel 1/8 inch and repeat. Finally, pare the cut wood away.

Professional tip
Replace slotted screws for your hinges with Phillips screws when you put the hinges back. They’re easier to power-drive and less likely to strip out the next time someone has to repair the door.

Door Support
It’s tough to plane a door without some kind of support to hold it on edge. Here’s a simple way to do it: Hold the door upright on the floor; lay a wide board on the floor and against the end of the door; and tack or screw the board to the door. Once the door is back in place, no one will ever see the fastener holes you made.
Use any scrap board or plywood that’s about 2 feet long and at least 6 inches wide. Add a second block at the other end for greater stability.

Doors that Bind Only Sometimes
If a door binds only during certain seasons, the door is probably absorbing excess moisture. The first thing to check is whether all the edges are sealed. If the edges are sealed, you can make one or more of the following adjustments. A light sanding or scraping of built-up paint may do the trick. If not, you may be able to deepen the hinge mortises enough to make the door fit. Be careful: if you cut the mortises too deep, the hinges will bind.
If the problem persists, remove the door and the hinge leaves. Plane or sand the hinge edge, or the top, wherever the door is binding. Re-seal the edges with paint or varnish after you are done.
The best time to seal the edge of a door is during the dry season when the door is at its smallest. Use two coats of paint or varnish.

Tools and Materials
- Hammer
- Screwdriver
- Chise

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Wood shrinks, joints open and fasteners loosen. What to do? An adjustable turnbuckle brace, available in rod or cable form, will square up the gate and permit future adjustments. Kits that include all necessary hardware and instructions are widely available but you can also make your own setup from standard hardware. Use steel cable for heavier gates. Support the gate in the proper position with a block of wood under the latch stile before you attach the hardware.

If the gate binds because the gatepost is leaning, use a similar turnbuckle arrangement. Connect the top of the gatepost to the bottom of the adjacent fence post.

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To cut a hole, drive the blades of your post hole digger sharply into the ground. When loose soil collects in the hole, pull the handles apart to scoop it out.
Try to dig a bell-shaped hole - larger at the bottom than the top. It may help to soak the soil before you dig post holes. If you hit small roots, cut them with garden snips. Try to relocate the hole if you find large roots.

Professional tip
Digging post holes is strenuous work. To avoid back strain, bend your knees and use your legs to help lift and drive the post hole digger.

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